Step straight into a film set for 'South Pacific' when you arrive in the Samoan capital, Apia - it's a magical first impression. On the main Samoan island of Upolu, there's an intriguing mix of historic churches and monuments, bustling flea and fish markets and laid-back residential districts that have a welcoming, traditional village feel to them. Around the island are some of the South Pacifics best (black sand) beaches. And to prove this really is a 'Treasure Island', visit Vallima just outside Apia, where Robert Louis Stevenson settled and spent the last five years of his life. There is an excellent museum nearby, dedicated to this splendid storyteller.
